For literary enthusiasts, seafaring adventurers and fans of rare spirits made by Carthusian monks, few destinations beckon like the French Riviera. And although Cannes might often steal the spotlight, those in the know head 30 minutes northeast along the Cote d'Azur to the alluring town of Antibes and neighboring Juan-les-Pins.
The strategic Mediterranean port has been under French rule since the late 15th century, but not without its battles. By the 1920s, the dust had settled, and notables like F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter and Marlene Dietrich rediscovered the region as a sun-soaked playground.
The art deco Hotel Belles Rives remains an iconic landmark and a stunning example of five-star luxury for nearly a century. Originally built as a private villa, the property now features 43 rooms and suites, with Hermes wallpaper, Murano glass and eclectic textiles by the French house Pierre Frey. (Be sure to book a seaview room with a Juliet balcony for the full experience.)
With direct access to the Bay of Cap d'Antibes, a day of swimming and waterskiing -- butler included -- is just a few steps away, with sunbeds and cabanas available for rental. If a beach read is more your style, Belles Rives' annual Prix Fitzgerald recognizes a work of fiction that embodies the "spirit, elegance and art of living" associated with the literary icon. Recent winners have included Joyce Carol Oates ("48 Clues Into the Disappearance of My Sister") and Quentin Tarantino ("Cinema Speculation"), with autographed copies available for purchase.
Breakfast on the terrace at Hotel Belles Rives in neighboring Juan-les-Pins. Photo Credit: Hotel Belles Rives
A multisensory feast
However you choose to pass the hours, Michelin-starred dining awaits at the on-site restaurant La Passagere, helmed by chef Aurelien Vequaud. The dining room alone is a feast for the eyes, showcasing art deco frescoes, Carrara marble mosaic floors and one-of-a-kind ceramics commissioned from local artists. The nouvelle vague menu changes seasonally, with the chef drawing inspiration from the bounty of locally sourced seafood.
Though the French Riviera evokes a carefree travel style, be sure to time your day to ensure a stunning sunset on Belles Rives' terrace. As day turns to dusk, there's simply no better view to enjoy a pastis or other aperitif, followed by a meander through the recently renovated Bar Fitzgerald to admire photos of past notables who have graced the property.
A mural by artist Kalouf at the Coul'Heures d'Automne art festival. Photo Credit: Antibes Juan-les-Pins Office of Tourism
Picassos and public art
Antibes' natural beauty and mild climate have long attracted artists (not to mention the wealthy patrons willing to subsidize their stays). In 1946, Pablo Picasso arrived by invitation from Romuald Dor de La Souchere, who, years earlier, had been hired to reimagine the historical but dilapidated Chateau Grimaldi into a museum.
Picasso spent three months working in the south wing on the second floor, producing a vast amount of work. Due to post-WWII scarcity, the artist experimented with unconventional materials like commercial enamel paints and plywood. Picasso initially donated 64 works, and in 1966, the property officially became the Picasso Museum.
More recently, art in Antibes has taken to the streets. Founded in 2020, The Coul'Heures d'Automne Festival puts art in the public eye with a citywide mural festival. To date, 161 works have been completed. Explore on your own or book a guided tour for a more in-depth exploration. Those looking for more culture can explore nearby museums and galleries.
L'Absinthe Bar features dozens of varieties of the legendary drink. Photo Credit: Antibes Juan-les-Pins Office of Tourism
Fine dining with local influence
For a taste of what Antibes has to offer, strolling through the Marche Provencal market displays quintessential regional products from herbes de Provence to dried sausages and other giftables worth leaving extra room for in your suitcase.
L'Absinthe Bar, located in the cellar of a spirits shop across the street from the market, pays homage to the legendary elixir (minus the hallucinogenic wormwood). Here you'll find dozens of varieties, vintage absinthiana (the customary serviceware) and a lively crowd.
Owner Frederic Rosenfelder, who loves a hidden entrance, recently opened a speakeasy, Le Salon by Chartreuse, unmarked at 22 Rue Guillaumont. The venue features a one-of-a-kind collection of the herbal liqueur. (Hint: The street-level bar is just a front. A nondescript door at the rear reveals the lush den below.)
The onion tart at the restaurant Maison Le Safranier. Photo Credit: Matthew Wexler
For full-service meal options, an al fresco lunch at Maison Le Safranier boasts chef Oliver Gaiatto's seasonal chalkboard menu, including fresh pastas, bouillabaisse and local seafood. And for a finale to your French Riviera rendezvous, experience dinner at chef Mauro Colagrecois' Amarines, located at the newly opened five-star Villa Mirae.
The four-course menu combines technique and terroir in dishes such as red prawn carpaccio, lightly smoked local fish with celeriac and sorrel and creme brulee tucked under a pillowy cream. Decadent? Perhaps. But c'est la vie!
While most establishments remain open year-round in Antibes, neighboring Juan-les-Pins hibernates in winter. By early April, most hotels, restaurants and retailers are open, but the Cannes Film Festival in May saturates the market. The International Jazz Festival in July also attracts global talent and crowds.
If celebrity sightings are your style, mark your calendar. If not, the season winds down in October, offering warm days and a more relaxed vibe.