Felicity Long
If a destination is struggling with overtourism, does that mean you shouldn't go?
A case in point is Palma de Mallorca, the capital of one of Spain's most enticing of the Balearic Islands, where local residents expressed their frustration with summer crowds by literally marching in the streets in protest.
A quick look at the numbers shows that inbound tourism to the island has not only rebounded to prepandemic levels but has exceeded them -- a jump from about 16 million visitors in 2019 to a projected 19 million in 2025 (official visitor numbers have yet to be released).
That's a lot of visitors, especially given that just under a million people actually live there.
But as we in the industry know all too well, the push-pull of tourism is a complicated beast, especially in a destination that relies on it for nearly half of its gross national product.
So rather than pull up the drawbridge, Palma is instead looking to rethink its future as a tourism hot spot with some initiatives, like banning party boats, just for starters, and regulating Airbnbs and other rentals.
Either way, visitors from the U.S., who make up the destination's fastest-growing market, can do our part by exploring the off season, generally considered to be November to April (not including the holidays) -- and being mindful of our impact on residents, their infrastructure and the environment.
For example, there will be a total solar eclipse on Aug. 12, visible from Greenland, Iceland, Portugal and northern Spain, including Mallorca. Depending on your tolerance for crowds, this would at least be something to be aware of when planning a summer vacation.
Another initiative by tourism entities is to reposition Palma as a cultural hub rather than just another beach destination. One way they're doing that is by launching a bid to be chosen the European Capital of Culture in 2031, a shift likely to resonate with visitors from North America who, let's face it, can find plenty of inviting beaches a lot closer to home.
Palma pastimes
In Palma, modern art is on display at Es Baluard Museu d'Art Contemporani and Fundacio Miro Mallorca as well as at smaller galleries like Kewenig Gallery, housed in a 13th century chapel, and Casal Solleric, a contemporary exhibition space in a former aristocratic palace.
Meanwhile, foodies can explore an evolving culinary scene that includes Del Tokio a Lima for Japanese and Peruvian fusion; Mombo, with a bistro-style menu created by chef Gabriel Conti; and Fornet de la Soca and Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo for more traditional fare.
Meanwhile, boutique hotels that lean into their cultural bona fides include Hotel Can Cera, a 14-room, 17th-century mansion; the 36-room Sant Jaume, located between a Gothic church and a Baroque convent in old town; and the five-star Palma Riad, an adults-only, 11-suite property with inner courtyards and gardens.
Finally, a time-honored way to achieve elbow room in a popular destination is to escape the city altogether. Suggestions include the Tramuntana Mountains, a Unesco World Heritage site boasting beautiful coastal views, and the villages of Valldemossa, Solle, and Deia, the latter of which is a haven for artists, writers and musicians.